How to wear vintage style for your body type

by Sarah Hannah Fisher

Anyone who loves vintage style knows that different eras loved different body types. From androgynous 1920s to pear-shaped Victorian style to fifties hourglass curves, find out what vintage styles will best suit your body type.

Shopping can be tricky sometimes, what with almost every brand having different sizing standards and so many styles to choose from. Being the clued up Mookychick that you are, chances are you already have some idea what looks good on you and what you like.

While dressing for your body shape is always important, it can be even harder when shopping for vintage since women's shapes were different in years gone by. The fashion silhouette is constantly changing and evolving. The past 100 years has seen every different body shape as being in fashion so the good news is, no matter what, there is an era that will suit you.

Typically, vintage dresses are about 4 sizes smaller than modern dresses so it is useless to rely on size tags, if they still have tags. Also, remember that in earlier eras women often used foundation garments like corsets and girdles to cinch waists and literally create the shape required by the fashion of the day.

We shall be looking at four basic body shapes that the fashion industry uses when they talk about dressing for your body shape; the hourglass, the pear, the apple and the rectangle.

The idea of working with body shapes is to recognize your best features and play them up while trying to minimize your not-so-good parts. Once you know which body shape resembles yours (and yes, the categories are very broad so pick one that fits the best it can), just read on and you will discover what vintage eras will make you dazzle.

BODY TYPE: HOURGLASS

Your hourglass figure was celebrated during the 1950's with sexy women like Marilyn Monroe. You have a well-defined waist and should wear things that emphasize this without adding any bulk.

• 1950's voluminous, printed, cotton skirts look amazing when paired with a simple tank or tee and nipped in at the waist.
• Stick to darker shades when it comes to slip dresses or layer a lighter one underneath with a little ruffle or lace peeping out at the hem.
• Wrap dresses from the 1970s will hug your curves in all the right places.
• Swing coats and capes from the 1960s as well as belted trench coats suit you well.
• Wiggle dresses from the 50s and 60s will make you va-va-voom sexy!
• Short, boxy jackets from the 50s look great on you.
• 1950s style pin up knits and snug cardigan sweaters look great with hip skimming Capri pants.
• You can wear slinky, sexy 1930's bias-cut gowns and slips but remember to wear some Spanx underneath to smooth out any lumps & bumps
• Cinch your waist! You have a classical feminine shape so remember about belts to emphasize it.
• Sweetheart necklines from the 1950's gives your bust a nice boost.

AVOID:

• Victorian or Edwardian high necklines or 1970s turtleneck sweaters as this will make your bust look larger and draw attention away from your waist
• Shift dresses from the 60s as they will just swamp you.
• Anything from the 1920s. They were designed for women without curves.
• Crazy, huge abstract prints from the 1970s. Stick to smaller, close-knit patterns or floral in dresses and blouses.
• Anything that is baggy and shapeless. It will make you look larger than you actually are.
• If you have a large bust, don't even bother with anything backless!

BODY TYPE: PEAR

As a pear shape, you have a slim, toned upper body and are slightly larger across the hips. Your bust is narrower than your hips and you probably have fuller thighs and a full, round bum. Look for clothing that draws attention away from the hips and highlights your arms and décolletage to help you look more in proportion.

• The 1960's A-line cut skirts and dresses look amazing on you.
• Know your tailor
• avoid lengths that fall anywhere between the calf and knee.
• Long skirts from the Victorian or Edwardian era as well as those from the 1970's are excellent for your body shape. Team it with a fitted top to modernize the look.
• Silk camisoles and other sleeveless looks will highlight your shapely arms.
• Boxy jackets like those from the 1980s will help broaden your shoulders to appear more in proportion with your hips.
• Look to long gowns from the 1950s and 1970s that will showcase your top half and skim over the hips.
• Get some chunky earrings or necklaces from the 1980s to draw attention to your upper body.
• Bootleg and flared style pants from the 70s will balance out your hips.
• Empire style dresses and slips will skim your hips.

AVOID:

Pockets on your skirts or dresses especially if they have some sort of embroidery type decoration.

Heavy, thick fabrics

Tight, "hip-hugger" jeans

Pleated skirts from the 40s and 50s

BODY TYPE: APPLE

Apples generally have a thicker midsection but are blessed with a shapely bust and legs. You may have a bit of a belly and fuller upper thighs. You need to create the illusion of a longer line.

• Decades that don't emphasis the waist will suit you best. These include outfits from the 1930's and the 1960's or 70's.
• Keep the length short
• show off your legs!
• Wear beaded cardigans from the 50s with tailored pants
• Sleeveless shift-style dresses from the 60s suit you fantastically.
• Heavy beaded earrings from the 1920s or 1980s will draw the attention up towards your face and away from your middle section.
• Low necklines will work in your favor to highlight your bust.

AVOID

• Dresses that highlight the waist, such as those from the 50's
• Any bulkiness around the waist.

BODY TYPE: RECTANGLE

You are straight up and down and lacking in curves with a slight boy-ish figure. You need to add curves by emphasizing your slim shoulders or defining your waist.

• Beaded, flapper style dresses from the 20's were made for you! Team with modern accessories and heels for the cocktail hour.
• Boxy, wide shouldered suits and jackets from the 1940's will give you shape.
• Look for 1970s maxi dresses and halter neck styles.
• Any straight, mod style of dresses or skirts from the 1960s will suit you well. Look to models like Jean Shrimpton and Twiggy.
• Look for circle skirts with bold prints.
• Look for dresses with neck and shoulder detailing like darts, pleats or sequins.
• If you're tall and thin you can pull off high waisted pants and jeans. Voluminous palazzo pants from the 1970s can look chick with a tailored shirt and flats.
• If you're skinny, check out vintage belts. Having a small waist means that you will be able to wear belts from other eras where women were smaller.
• Pleated skirts from the 50s will give you volume and add the illusion of hips. Nip it in at the waist.
• If you have a flat stomach go for the flirty and stylish bias cut dresses from the 30s.
• You can wear bold prints from the 1970s or anything Pucci-esque as it won't overpower your shape.
• The same applies for heavily beaded or sequined items.
• Petticoats and spaghetti strap slips look awesome on skinny girls, wear it on its own or add a vintage tee over the top
• If you are petite, your small hands will be perfect for vintage gloves!

AVOID

• Pencil skirts
• If you are skinny, be careful with hotpants or teeny mini skirts unless you want to look like a toothpick!

Please remember that this is only a guide! If you want to wear something that isn't listed as suiting you, then do! The key to wearing anything well is to pair it with a smile and some kick ass confidence.

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